In 1996, a Spanish novelist looked at a market square in Marrakech and realized there was no legal instrument on earth that could protect what happened there. The buildings could be listed. The storytellers standing in the middle of them could not. What he did about that changed how the world defines heritage, and it started with a plan to build a car park.
The square that forced a new idea
Jemaa el-Fna sits in the medina of Marrakech and has functioned as a market and gathering place since the Almoravids founded the city in 1062. Storytellers, acrobats, Berber and Arab musicians, Gnaoua groups, snake charmers and fortune tellers work there daily, each drawing a halqa, an Arabic word meaning circle. The circle is the venue. A teller arrives, begins, and the audience assembles around them out of the crowd.
Juan Goytisolo, a Spanish writer who has lived part of his life in the medina, learned in the mid-1990s that the local authorities intended to put a glass-fronted tower block and an underground car park beside the square. He understood what that would do to the trade of a man who needs a crowd and open ground, and he asked UNESCO to declare the square oral heritage of humanity.
No such category existed.
Goytisolo petitions UNESCO on behalf of a square full of performers. The 1972 World Heritage Convention protects buildings and landscapes; nothing protects a practice.
A meeting is convened in Marrakech to work out what such a protection could even look like.
UNESCO launches the Proclamation of Masterpieces of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity.
Jemaa el-Fna is among the first Masterpieces proclaimed.
The Convention for the Safeguarding of the Intangible Cultural Heritage is adopted, the framework now used worldwide for languages, crafts, music and oral traditions.
Every intangible heritage listing in the world descends from an argument about storytellers in a Moroccan square. Goytisolo’s description of the place, given at the opening meeting for the new initiative, is the best summary of why it was worth the trouble: the spectacle repeats every day, and every day it is different.
Picture the room
Evening in the square, smoke from the food stalls, and a man begins speaking to nobody in particular. Two people stop. Then six. Within a minute there is a ring of forty standing shoulder to shoulder, and no one at the back can see anything at all. They are not watching. They are listening, in Moroccan Arabic, to a story most of them already know.
Recognition has not solved everything. The geographer Thomas Schmitt, who has studied the square closely, found that storytelling there is being pushed aside by musical acts that draw younger audiences, and that a UNESCO listing brings commercial pressure alongside protection. Naming a living practice as heritage does not freeze it, and it can quietly change what it is.
Jonesborough, Tennessee: sixty people and a hay wagon
The other founding story of the modern festival movement is smaller and stranger. In 1973 a high school journalism teacher named Jimmy Neil Smith was driving with a carload of students when Jerry Clower came on the radio, telling a tale about raccoon hunting in Mississippi. Smith decided his town should hold a festival for that.
The National Storytelling Festival
Jonesborough, Tennessee, first weekend of October
The stage was a hay wagon parked by the courthouse and the seating was hay bales. Audience and tellers together came to about sixty people.
The Center in Jonesborough was the first facility in the world built solely for storytelling, and it runs a teller-in-residence season from spring through autumn, so the town has live storytelling most of the year rather than one weekend of it.
Edinburgh: the largest of them
The Scottish International Storytelling Festival began in 1989 and now describes itself as the world’s largest celebration of the form, with programmes running past a hundred events. It is built on the ceilidh tradition, the Scottish house gathering, and it is deliberately scheduled for late October so that it ends at Halloween and Samhuinn, when the dark half of the year begins.
Its home, the Scottish Storytelling Centre on the Royal Mile, is the only purpose-built storytelling venue in the United Kingdom. Recent programmes have brought tellers from Finland, Iceland, Norway, Sweden, Germany, India and Ireland, alongside a French-Cameroonian artist working in the griot tradition of West Africa.
Cape Clear: eight miles offshore
Ireland’s Cape Clear Island International Storytelling Festival takes the opposite approach to scale. The island lies eight miles off the coast of West Cork, reachable by ferry, and the festival has run for over three decades in a place where the audience cannot easily leave and the storytellers cannot easily be replaced.
Smallness is the design. An island festival cannot become a stadium event, which means the form stays close to what it was: a person talking, in a room, to people who can see their face.
Beyond the English-speaking circuit
The four above are the ones usually named in English. They are not the biggest, the oldest, or the most interesting.
Kathakar, India
New Delhi, with editions in Mumbai, Bengaluru, Jodhpur and Jaipur
Founded in 2010 under UNESCO patronage by the NGOs Nivesh and HHACH, and curated by three sisters, Rachna, Prarthana and Shaguna Gahilote. It is now described as Asia’s largest oral storytelling festival.
Mornings at Kathakar are for children, evenings for everyone. The dedication tells you something about what the founders think storytelling is for: the man it honors spent his life making written words reachable by people who could not see them.
The Spanish-speaking world calls them cuenteros
There is an entire festival circuit conducted in Spanish that rarely appears on English lists at all.
Mexico’s Festival Internacional de Narración Oral Cuéntalee has run for more than thirty-six years, staged partly in the Palacio de Bellas Artes in Mexico City and organized through the national literature body. It gathers narradores orales from Argentina, Colombia, Cuba, Venezuela, Costa Rica, Panama, Peru, Jamaica, Brazil, Spain, France and the Republic of the Congo.
In 2025, under the theme Voces que vienen de lejos, voices that come from far away, the festival opened a space for oral narration in Indigenous languages for the first time in its history. Elizabeth Márquez, from San Miguel Tenango in the sierra of Puebla, performed her poems in Nahuatl and Spanish.
Thirty-six years of celebrating oral tradition before the first performance in an Indigenous language of the country it is held in. The organizers said the point was to open the festival to people who had not had access to it, which was a candid admission.
Three more worth knowing
Spain, Argentina, Colombia
Different formats entirely, each solving the problem of how to hold attention in its own way.
The Guadalajara marathon deserves the attention. Stories run continuously for an entire weekend, told by whoever is next, with well over a thousand participants in recent years. Anyone can take a turn, which makes it the closest thing on this list to how storytelling actually worked before anyone thought to sell tickets.
Armando Trejo, who has directed the Mexican festival, traces the modern narrador oral back through a specific lineage: the tribal storyteller, the traveling minstrel, the shaman, the Arab fabulist, the community teller, and the grandparent. That is a more accurate family tree than most English accounts offer, which tend to begin with Homer and skip the rest of the planet.
The smallest form: a room, every week, for decades
Festivals are annual. The harder and rarer thing is the weekly circle that never stops, and the best documented example has been running in Toronto since 1978.
Its origin was an accident. Dan Yashinsky had persuaded the owners of Gaffer’s Café in Kensington Market to let him tell stories on Friday nights between the musicians’ sets. One evening the musicians did not turn up, and he was pushed onstage to cover the whole night alone. It went well enough that it kept happening.
1001 Friday Nights of Storytelling
Toronto, every Friday at eight, since 1978
Described as North America’s longest-running storytelling open mic. An accomplished teller hosts; anyone present may accept the talking stick and tell.
What grew out of it matters as much as the evening itself. In the spring of 1979 Yashinsky, together with Celia Lottridge, Lorne Brown, Bob Barton, Alice Kane, Joan Bodger and Rosemary Allison, founded both the Toronto Storytelling Festival and the Storytellers School of Toronto. A festival, a school, and a weekly open mic, all three still running, all traceable to a night when the band canceled.
Yashinsky later collected around fifty stories from those Fridays into Tales for an Unknown City, which won a Toronto Book Award, and he received the Jane Jacobs Prize in 1999 for his contribution to the city’s cultural life.
Picture the room
The night a major ice storm hits Toronto. Traffic is stopped and the phone lines are down. A man in his seventies makes his way along an iced road to the church, asks the minister for the key, sets the chairs out in a row himself, and lights candles on the table so the room feels right. In his early years he used to hitchhike a hundred and twelve kilometers to get there.
That is the whole argument for the small form. Nobody hitchhikes across a province for a broadcast. One of the current hosts, asked why it persists, said simply that people are hungry for connection.
What festivals are actually for
Set them side by side and a pattern appears. Jemaa el-Fna is a working tradition that needed defending. Jonesborough is a revival built from almost nothing. Edinburgh is an institution with a permanent building. Cape Clear refuses to grow. Kathakar was founded to reach children who would otherwise never hear a professional teller. Guadalajara hands the microphone onward and does not stop. Toronto proves the form survives at the smallest possible scale, one room and one evening a week, for nearly fifty years.
All four exist because the same thing keeps happening: a practice that requires people to gather in one place is the first casualty of every technology that lets them stay home. Radio emptied the Damascus cafés. Television finished the job. The festivals are an answer to that, and their common feature is that attendance is the whole point. You cannot stream a halqa. The circle only forms if you stand in it.
How this applies to you
- Go once. Most of these run annually in October, and most have family programmes that are cheaper and quieter than the main events.
- Sit near the front. The form depends on the teller seeing the audience react, and the back of a tent is a different experience from the third row.
- Take a child to a live telling before they decide books are homework. A person telling a story without a screen is genuinely strange to a child raised on video, and strange is memorable.
- Find the weekly one instead. Open storytelling circles are cheaper, smaller, and more welcoming than festivals, and most cities have one if you look.
- Make a small one. A room, a time, and somebody willing to go first. Everything above began at that size, and one of them began because a band failed to show up.
Jonesborough had sixty people and a farm wagon. Fifty years later a town of five thousand calls itself the storytelling capital of the world, and a square in Marrakech rewrote an international convention. Neither started with a budget.
Sources and further reading
- Thomas M. Schmitt, The UNESCO Concept of Safeguarding Intangible Cultural Heritage: Its Background and Marrakchi Roots, International Journal of Heritage Studies, 2008
- Thomas M. Schmitt, Jemaa el Fna Square in Marrakech: Changes to a Social Space and to a UNESCO Masterpiece of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity as a Result of Global Influences, The Arab World Geographer, 8(4), 2005
- UNESCO, Convention for the Safeguarding of the Intangible Cultural Heritage, 2003, and the Masterpieces programme of 1998
- Atlas Obscura, Jemaa el-Fna Square in Marrakesh, on the square’s history and Goytisolo’s remarks
- National Storytelling Festival and the International Storytelling Center, Jonesborough, Tennessee, storytellingcenter.net
- Tennessee Home and Farm, Tellin’ Tales at the National Storytelling Festival, on the 1973 origins
- Scottish International Storytelling Festival, organized by Traditional Arts and Culture Scotland, and the Scottish Storytelling Centre, Edinburgh
- Cape Clear Island International Storytelling Festival, West Cork, capeclearstorytelling.com
- Kathakar International Storytellers Festival, New Delhi, founded 2010 by Nivesh and HHACH under UNESCO patronage
- Instituto Nacional de Bellas Artes y Literatura (INBAL), Festival Cuéntalee México 2025, on the thirty-sixth edition and the first performance in Nahuatl
- Sistema de Información Cultural, Secretaría de Cultura de México, entry for the Festival Internacional de Narración Oral Cuéntalee
- Maratón de los Cuentos, Guadalajara, Spain, held annually since 1992 at the Palacio del Infantado
- Fundación El Libro, Encuentro Internacional de Narración Oral: Cuenteros y cuentacuentos, Feria Internacional del Libro de Buenos Aires
- Alcaldía de Itagüí, on the Encuentro Internacional de Narradores Orales Cántaro de Cuentos, Colombia
- 1001 Friday Nights of Storytelling, Toronto, Our Story, 1001fridays.org, on the founding at Gaffer’s Café and the 1979 founding of the festival and school
- Dan Yashinsky, ed., Tales for an Unknown City: From 1001 Friday Nights of Storytelling, McGill-Queen’s University Press, 1992
- Toronto Observer, reporting on 1001 Friday Nights of Storytelling and its long-standing participants, 2024
- Storytellers of Canada / Conteurs du Canada, local groups directory, and Storytelling Toronto

